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How I Do my DC Controller

DISCLAIMER: Do this at your own risk. I do not recommend or
advise that you use this procedure. I only admit that I do. Electricity
can bite so you need to be careful.

My D-Light DCx16 controller is enclosed in a clear lid Fibox enclosure.

DC Box with D-Light DCx16 and old PC power Supply

As you can see I mounted the DC controller on the bottom and the power supply in the lid.
In both cases I used hex standoffs to hold them off the bottom (top). You can get those standoffs
at Radio Shack or www.allelectronics.com (search for hex).

DC box open

This power supply came from an old PC. The DC board can pull it's power from the same power supply the powers the 12 volt MR16 LED.

Power supply closeup 

Since this PS is not an ATX type it had a power switch instead. The ATX type operate differently and you would need to
wire in a resister so the power supply would sense a load and turn on. More on that here. I just jumped out the switch wires.
The switch wires are the orange wires in the upper left quadrant. I soldered them together (but didn't tape them up?)

This type of power supply has all the leads labeled on the board (as most PS do). I cut the 5 volt wires off, the 12 volt negative
and some of the black ground wires. I doubled up the 12 volt and ground wires and ran them to the DC controller.

The reason I took the board out of the supply was two fold. First to save space and second I don't expect it to generate
much heat so I didn't need the fan.

DC testing

This is the setup I used to test the MR16 LED's. Here's a quick video of the tests of the Best Honk Kong and the Easy LED.

The connectors I used to connect the controller box to the MR16 holders are from All Electronics as well. Click here for the connectors.

I also used 22 gauge wire from All Electronics. Click here for the wire.

Here's where I got the holders.

 

 

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